Proper Cloth vs UNTUCKit: which dress shirt is actually worth it?
Side by side on the specifications that decide how a shirt looks after a year: the collar interlining, how the size is arrived at, the cloth, and the price each brand actually advertises rather than the one on the ticket.
Proper Cloth delivers more shirt per dollar than UNTUCKit
Proper Cloth scores 100/100 on specification per dollar against 0/100 for UNTUCKit. The score weighs two things a shirt is actually judged on after a year: the collar interlining and how the size is arrived at. UNTUCKit does not publish its collar interlining, so there is nothing there to check. Price is the lowest per-shirt figure each brand advertises itself, not a list price neither of them expects you to pay.
- Lower advertised price: UNTUCKit — $79 against $125 a shirt
- Collar construction: Proper Cloth — Proper Cloth publishes it (fused or unfused, your choice at order); UNTUCKit does not
- Fit control: Proper Cloth — Questionnaire-derived size against alpha sizing (s/m/l/xl)
| Specification | Proper Cloth | UNTUCKit |
|---|---|---|
| List price, one shirtWhat a single shirt costs at full price. | $1251 | $1157 |
| Lowest advertised priceThe per-shirt price the brand itself promotes — its multi-buy ladder or standing sale. | $125 (no multi-buy)1 | $797 |
| Collar interliningA glued collar is what bubbles and curls after a year of washing. Most brands decline to say which theirs is. | Fused or unfused, your choice at order2 | Not published by the brand87 |
| How the size is decidedAlpha sizing asks you to fit the shirt; a drafted pattern fits the shirt to you. | Questionnaire-derived size314 | Alpha sizing (S/M/L/XL)8 |
| Cloth | Broadcloth, twill, pinpoint oxford, chambray, denim, dobby, end-on-end, flannel, melange, oxford, poplin, royal oxford, herringbone and seersucker, in Egyptian, Sea Island, American Pima and Giza 45 cottons. Both two-ply and single-ply are offered, with counts referenced from 50s up to 330s and the rule of thumb that anything above 100 implies two-ply. No non-iron or wrinkle-free treatment is mentioned anywhere in the fabric reference; wrinkling is discussed only as a property of the weave.5 | The copy stays generic — premium, high-quality fabrics and 100% cotton you can wash, dry and wear. No weave name, weight, ply or yarn count is published. The wrinkle-free line is framed as resisting creasing rather than as a graded non-iron finish.78 |
| Published construction | Collar construction is the one spec published in full, per collar model. Single-needle side seams, stitch density, split yoke and removable collar stays are not stated on the reference pages, and the button material could not be confirmed from the linked button article.21 | Nothing is published. No interlining, stitch density, single-needle seam, split yoke, gusset or button material appears on the collection or shirt pages; the brand specifies silhouette and length instead of construction.87 |
| Where it is made | Does not name a country of manufacture on any page read — not on the custom shirt page, the fabric reference or the guarantee.156 | No country of manufacture is stated. One product description claims a Fair Trade Certified factory for a stretch cotton oxford but still names no country.87 |
| Returns | Free 60-day returns and remakes, with free remakes if the first custom shirt is not right. No numeric cap on remakes is stated on the guarantee page; a third-party write-up claims two complimentary remakes per product category, which the brand page does not confirm. Altered clothing is not accepted back at all, and who pays return shipping is not stated.6 | Thirty days from delivery for unworn, unwashed, undamaged items, exchanges included, and a prepaid return label is provided so the brand pays return shipping. A third-party return guide states a 60-day window; the brand’s own support pages say 30 and the two disagree.91011 |
| Turnaround | Made to measure in under two weeks, stated on the custom shirt page.1 | No dispatch or delivery time was reached on any UNTUCKit page read for this record. |
| Spec per dollarCollar construction and sizing method against the price actually advertised (0–100). | 100/100 · Exceptional | 0/100 · Paying for the name |
Who each one is for
- Proper Cloth
- Someone who wants to choose a fused or unfused collar knowingly, without measuring themselves, and to have the shirt inside two weeks.
- UNTUCKit
- Someone whose whole problem is shirt length, not collar construction, and who wants a wrinkle-free shirt they never tuck in.
Questions people ask about this pair
- Is Proper Cloth or UNTUCKit cheaper?
- UNTUCKit. Its lowest advertised price is $79 a shirt against $125 for Proper Cloth. At full list the two are $125 and $115.
- Which has the better collar?
- Proper Cloth. Publishes interlining by collar model and defines the terms: a heat-bonded interlining is fused, a sewn-in one is unfused. Dress collars are stiff fused, casual collars are soft non-fused with the interlining sewn to the collar fabric, and hybrid collars are soft fused with a lighter, more pliable interlining. Because the choice is made by picking a collar, the buyer decides fused or unfused at order time. Does not publish whether its collars are fused. Collar shape is offered as a filter — button down, camp, point, semi cutaway, spread — and nothing about interlining appears on any page read.
- How do I get the right size from Proper Cloth or UNTUCKit?
- Proper Cloth: Three routes: a ten-question Smart Sizes questionnaire that adjusts sixteen independent fit points, nine body measurements entered directly, or measurements taken off a shirt you already own. Standard fits are Super Slim, Slim and Classic. Read the size charts carefully — chest, midsection, bottom and sleeve widths are half, flat garment measurements taken across the front of a shirt lying flat, and the brand says to double them to get the garment circumference, so a listed 21.5 inch chest width is a 43 inch chest. UNTUCKit: Alpha sizing only, Small through XXX-Large, crossed with Slim, Regular, Relaxed, Tall Slim and Tall Regular and a sleeve length choice. There is no neck-and-sleeve sizing and no made-to-measure; the whole size system is built around shirt length rather than collar.
- What are the return policies?
- Proper Cloth: Free 60-day returns and remakes, with free remakes if the first custom shirt is not right. No numeric cap on remakes is stated on the guarantee page; a third-party write-up claims two complimentary remakes per product category, which the brand page does not confirm. Altered clothing is not accepted back at all, and who pays return shipping is not stated. UNTUCKit: Thirty days from delivery for unworn, unwashed, undamaged items, exchanges included, and a prepaid return label is provided so the brand pays return shipping. A third-party return guide states a 60-day window; the brand’s own support pages say 30 and the two disagree.
What a made-to-measure shirt costs from the workshop
We are not on this page to sell you a third option you did not ask for, so here are the numbers to compare against the table above. A shirt cut to your own measurements in our Hoi An workshop is $39–$59 garment-only, depending on the cloth, with shipping quoted separately. There is no size to pick and no fit name to guess between: the pattern is drafted from your measurements.
Neither Proper Cloth nor UNTUCKit is a bad shirt at its price. The question this page exists to answer is what each one publishes about how it is built — and that is in the table, with the sources. See how the measurements are taken.
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Other shirt comparisons
Sources
- 1. Proper Cloth — custom dress shirtsbrand · read 2026-09-29
- 2. Proper Cloth — shirt collar constructionsbrand · read 2026-09-29
- 3. Proper Cloth — standard sizes, types of fit and size chartsbrand · read 2026-09-29
- 4. Proper Cloth — dress shirt body measurementsbrand · read 2026-09-29
- 5. Proper Cloth — dress shirt fabrics referencebrand · read 2026-09-29
- 6. Proper Cloth — Perfect Fit Guaranteebrand · read 2026-09-29
- 7. UNTUCKit — wrinkle-free collectionbrand · read 2026-09-29
- 8. UNTUCKit — shirts collectionbrand · read 2026-09-29
- 9. UNTUCKit support — return and exchange policybrand · read 2026-09-29
- 10. UNTUCKit support — how to start a return or exchangebrand · read 2026-09-29
- 11. SuperMoney — UNTUCKit return policy (states 60 days)third-party · read 2026-09-29