NathanCustom Tailors
Blog/Style Guides
2026-02-278 min read

Your 'Silk' Pajamas Are Polyester and Your Skin Knows It

Most "silk" pajamas sold in the US are polyester satin. Learn the difference between real mulberry silk and synthetic satin, why momme weight matters, and how to get custom 22mm silk pajama sets from Hoi An for a fraction of what Lilysilk and Lunya charge.

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Your 'Silk' Pajamas Are Polyester and Your Skin Knows It

A note from Jay: I write mostly for guys on this blog -- Wall Street dress codes, midtown uniforms, wedding suits. But our inbox tells a different story. About 40% of our orders are from women, and the single most-requested item after wedding dresses? Silk pajama sets. So this one is for you.

Woman relaxing in luxury silk pajamas -- the kind of set that looks like it costs $300 but does not have to
Real silk pajamas are not a luxury. They are a material upgrade most women can afford -- if they skip the brand markup.

The Polyester Problem Nobody Talks About

Let me tell you something the sleepwear industry really does not want you to know.

That $65 "satin" pajama set from Victoria's Secret? It is polyester. That silky-looking set you found on Amazon with 4,000 reviews and "luxurious satin" in the title? Also polyester. That gift set in the pretty box at TJ Maxx that says "satin pajamas" in a cursive font? You already know where this is going.

Here is the thing: satin is not a fabric. Satin is a weave pattern. It describes how the threads are interlocked -- one over, three or four under -- to create that smooth, shiny surface. You can make satin from silk. You can also make it from polyester, nylon, or any synthetic fiber. And the vast majority of "satin" sleepwear on the market today is made from polyester -- which is, to put it plainly, plastic.

If your pajamas cost $50 and the tag says "satin" without specifying the fiber content, you are sleeping in refined petroleum byproduct. Your skin knows it. Your hair knows it. That clammy feeling at 3 AM? Your pajamas are not breathing because they literally cannot. Polyester does not absorb moisture. It does not regulate temperature. It traps heat, creates static, and pulls moisture away from your skin.

Real silk does the opposite of all of those things. And it does not have to cost $300.

Why Real Silk Actually Matters (This Is Not Just About Luxury)

I spent a decade in the textile industry before I moved to Hoi An, and one of the things that genuinely frustrates me is how "silk" has been reduced to a marketing word for "shiny." It is so much more than that.

Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by silkworms -- specifically the Bombyx mori moth when we are talking about mulberry silk. That protein structure is what makes it behave completely differently from synthetics on your skin. Here is what the research actually shows:

  • 43% less friction than cotton. This is not a marketing claim -- it is physics. The smooth protein surface of silk creates significantly less drag against your skin and hair. Less friction means fewer sleep creases on your face, less hair breakage, and less frizz. If you have curly or textured hair, this matters even more.
  • Natural thermoregulation. Silk keeps you cool when it is hot and warm when it is cold. The fiber structure traps a thin layer of air that acts as insulation, while the porous surface allows moisture to evaporate. Polyester does neither -- it just traps heat and sweat against your body.
  • Hypoallergenic properties. Silk naturally resists dust mites, mold, and fungus. If you have sensitive skin, eczema, or allergies, the difference between sleeping in polyester and sleeping in silk is not subtle.
  • Moisture management, not absorption. This is the one that surprises people. Silk can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp, but it does not wick moisture away from your skin the way cotton does. Translation: your expensive night serums, retinoids, and moisturizers stay on your face instead of being absorbed into your pillowcase and pajamas. If you are spending $40-$80 on skincare products and then sleeping on cotton, you are literally wiping some of that investment off every night.

This is not indulgence. It is a wellness investment that pays for itself in skincare savings, hair maintenance, and sleep quality. The women who figure this out do not go back to cotton or polyester.

The Momme Cheat Sheet: Silk's Version of Thread Count

If you start shopping for real silk pajamas, you will immediately run into the word "momme" (pronounced like "MOM-ee") and have no idea what it means. That is by design -- most brands either do not disclose it or bury it in the product details. Here is the simple version.

Momme (mm) is a unit of weight for silk fabric. Think of it like thread count for cotton, except it actually tells you something useful. A higher momme means denser, more durable silk. Here is the practical breakdown for sleepwear:

  • 16mm: Budget tier. This is what you find in the cheapest "real silk" pajamas. It is thin, slightly see-through, and will not last more than a year of regular washing. Better than polyester, but barely.
  • 19mm: Solid mid-range. Opaque, comfortable, and durable enough for regular wear. If you are buying your first real silk set and want to keep the price reasonable, 19mm is a perfectly good choice.
  • 22mm: The sweet spot. This is what Lilysilk uses for their premium line. It is what most luxury hotels put in their suites. Dense enough to drape beautifully, thick enough to last for years, light enough to be comfortable in any season. If you can afford 22mm, get 22mm.
  • 25mm+: Too heavy for pajamas. This weight is better suited for robes, blazers, or decorative items. At 25mm, silk starts to lose the fluid drape that makes it so pleasant to sleep in.

When a brand does not disclose the momme weight, treat it like a restaurant that will not show you the kitchen. They are probably hiding something. Every reputable silk brand should tell you the momme weight. If they do not, they are either using low-grade silk or blending it with synthetic fibers.

What You Are Actually Paying For: The Price Comparison

This is the part where the economics get interesting -- and where I earn my reputation for being a little too transparent for my own good.

Here is what silk pajama sets cost across the market right now, in early 2026:

Brand Product Price Real Silk? Momme
Victoria's Secret Satin PJ Set $50 - $95 NO (polyester) N/A
Quince Washable Silk Set ~$100 Yes Not disclosed
Lilysilk 22mm Silk Set $169 - $218 Yes (Grade 6A) 22mm
Lunya Washable Silk Set $278 - $348 Yes (Mulberry) Not disclosed
Petite Plume Silk PJ Set $295 Yes (Mulberry) Not disclosed
Olivia von Halle Silk PJ Set $475 - $690 Yes Varies
Nathan Tailors Custom Silk Set $60 - $100 Yes (Mulberry) 19 - 22mm

Read that table again slowly.

A custom-made, 19-22mm mulberry silk pajama set -- made to your exact measurements, in your choice of color and style -- costs less than a mass-produced polyester set from Victoria's Secret at the high end of their range. And it costs roughly a third of what Lilysilk charges for an off-the-rack set that may or may not fit your body.

How? The same reason our custom suits start at $129 while Indochino charges $449 for the same thing. We do not have the middlemen.

The Hoi An Silk Story: 300 Years of Weaving, Zero Years of Markup

Let me give you some context about where these pajamas are actually made.

Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage town on the central coast of Vietnam. It is famous for three things: its perfectly preserved ancient trading port, its food, and its tailoring. But before it was a tailoring destination, it was a silk town.

The silk weaving tradition in this region stretches back over 300 years, rooted in the Champa-Dai Viet era when artisans bred silkworms, harvested cocoons, and wove silk entirely by hand. These were not factory workers -- they were craftspeople whose techniques were passed down through families over generations. The silk they produced was so prized it was reserved for Vietnamese royalty and exported along maritime trade routes to Japan, China, and beyond.

Today, that tradition is very much alive. The Hoi An Silk Village -- about 20 minutes from our shop on Tran Hung Dao Street -- still operates a complete silk production cycle: mulberry tree cultivation, silkworm breeding, cocoon harvesting, thread spinning, dyeing, and weaving. You can walk through the entire process from living silkworm to finished fabric in a single afternoon.

This is not a tourist performance. This is the actual supply chain.

When we source mulberry silk for pajama sets at Nathan Tailors, we are buying from producers who are part of this ecosystem -- not importing fabric through three intermediaries and a distributor, the way American and European brands do. The fabric quality is identical. Mulberry silk is mulberry silk. A Grade 6A, 22mm mulberry silk from Vietnam is chemically and structurally the same as Grade 6A, 22mm mulberry silk sold by an Italian mill. The silkworm does not care about the brand label.

The difference is overhead. No Manhattan office lease. No $2 million marketing campaign. No celebrity endorsement deal. No retail markup at Nordstrom or Bloomingdale's. No investor returns to generate. Just silk, a tailor, and a customer.

That is how a $60-$100 custom silk pajama set is possible. It is not cheap silk. It is correctly priced silk.

Luxury silk pajamas -- mulberry silk is the same material regardless of where it is purchased, only the markup changes
The mulberry silk in a $60 Nathan Tailors set is the same protein fiber as the $475 Olivia von Halle set. The $415 difference is brand, packaging, and rent.

Custom vs Off-the-Rack: Why Fit Matters Even for Pajamas

I know what you are thinking: "They are pajamas, Jay. Does fit really matter?"

Yes. And here is why.

Off-the-rack pajamas are designed for a statistical average that does not actually exist. If you are petite, the sleeves are too long and the pants pool around your ankles. If you are tall, the top rides up and the pants hit above your ankles. If you have a longer torso or broader shoulders or a shorter inseam, you are constantly adjusting throughout the night.

You might not consciously notice it, but your body notices it. Every tug, bunch, twist, and ride-up interrupts the kind of uninterrupted sleep that makes you wake up feeling actually rested instead of just "technically unconscious for seven hours."

With a custom silk pajama set, you choose:

  • Neckline: Classic notch collar, mandarin collar, V-neck, or crew neck
  • Sleeve length: Long, three-quarter, short, or cap sleeve
  • Top length: Cropped, standard, or tunic length -- based on YOUR torso, not a size chart
  • Pants style: Full length, cropped, shorts, or wide-leg palazzo
  • Waistband: Drawstring, elastic, or combination
  • Details: Piping color, button style, pocket placement, monogramming
  • Exact color: Match to a Pantone reference, a Pinterest photo, or a photo of your bedroom decor

Every measurement is taken for your body -- shoulder width, bust, waist, hip, arm length, inseam, torso length. The result is a set that looks like it was designed specifically for you, because it was.

The Bridesmaid and Bachelorette Play

This might be the most practical section in this entire article, because this is where the economics get ridiculous.

If you have been on Instagram or Pinterest in the last two years, you have seen the photo: a bride and her bridesmaids wearing matching pajama sets, champagne in hand, getting ready on wedding morning. It has replaced the satin robe as the must-have getting-ready outfit. And for good reason -- pajamas photograph better, feel more natural, and you will actually wear them again.

Here is what that typically costs in the US:

  • Matching bridesmaid PJ sets from Etsy: $45 - $85 each (polyester satin, not real silk)
  • Matching silk sets from a premium brand: $150 - $295 each
  • For a bridal party of 6: $270 - $510 (polyester) or $900 - $1,770 (real silk)

Now here is what it costs through us:

  • Custom mulberry silk pajama sets, monogrammed with each bridesmaid's initials: $60 - $100 each
  • For a bridal party of 6: $360 - $600 total (real silk, custom fit, personalized)

You read that correctly. A full bridal party in custom monogrammed mulberry silk costs less than buying half the party polyester sets from a premium Etsy shop.

We handle bridesmaid orders all the time. Here is how it works:

  1. The bride picks the style, color, and details -- collar type, sleeve length, piping, monogram font and placement
  2. Each bridesmaid sends individual measurements via our guided measurement process -- takes about 10 minutes
  3. We make each set to individual measurements while keeping the design perfectly coordinated
  4. All sets ship together to one address (or individually -- your call) via DHL or FedEx
  5. Typical timeline: 2-4 weeks from order confirmation to delivery

We also do bachelorette party matching sets, bridesmaid proposal box inclusions (pair the PJs with a handwritten note from the bride), and bridal party "morning after" sets in a different color from the getting-ready set. If you want to see what other brides have ordered, just message us on WhatsApp and we will share photos from recent bridal parties (with their permission, obviously).

The "That Girl" Connection

If you are on TikTok -- or if TikTok is on you, which is more accurate -- you have seen the "that girl" morning routine videos. Wake up in beautiful pajamas. Stretch. Journal. Matcha latte. Skincare. It is an entire aspirational lifestyle, and it always starts the same way: a woman in gorgeous silk pajamas, bathed in morning light.

Here is the quiet part out loud: the "that girl" aesthetic is built on a foundation of expensive sleepwear. The influencers wearing Lunya and Olivia von Halle in those videos are either gifted those sets or spending $300-$600 on pajamas. That is the entry price to the aesthetic if you follow the brand playbook.

Or you could get the exact same look -- same mulberry silk, same drape, same way it catches the morning light -- custom-made for your body, for $60-$100.

This is not a knockoff. This is not a "dupe." It is the same raw material, made by experienced tailors, without the influencer marketing budget baked into the price. The silkworm does not know the difference between a worm that works for Lunya and a worm that works for our Hoi An suppliers. It is the same worm. It is the same silk. The only difference is who takes a cut between the fabric and your front door.

Silk Pajama Care: Yes, You Can Wash Them

The biggest objection I hear from women considering silk pajamas is: "But I cannot just throw them in the washing machine." Let me clear this up.

You absolutely can machine wash silk. Not on a hot cycle with your jeans and towels, obviously. But modern silk care is much simpler than the dry-clean-only reputation suggests:

  • Machine wash: Cold water, delicate cycle, inside a mesh laundry bag. Use a silk-specific detergent or a gentle, pH-neutral soap (The Laundress, Eucalan, or even baby shampoo).
  • Hand wash: Fill a basin with cold water, add a few drops of gentle soap, soak for 5 minutes, gently agitate, rinse. No wringing.
  • Drying: Lay flat on a towel, roll the towel to absorb excess water, then air dry on a flat surface or hang on a padded hanger. Never wring. Never tumble dry.
  • Ironing: If needed, iron on the lowest setting with a pressing cloth between the iron and the silk. But honestly, silk de-wrinkles quickly just from body heat and steam -- hang your pajamas in the bathroom while you shower.
  • Stain removal: Blot immediately, apply a tiny amount of gentle soap to the spot, rinse with cold water. Do not rub.

The entire process adds maybe three minutes to your laundry routine. Brands like Lunya have built their entire value proposition around "washable silk" as if they invented the concept. They did not. All mulberry silk is washable. They just charge $288 for permission to wash it.

How to Order Your Custom Silk Pajama Set

We have made this process as simple as possible, and we do it entirely remotely. You do not need to visit Hoi An (although you should -- it is beautiful).

Step 1: Tell Us What You Want

Send us a message on WhatsApp with your inspiration -- Pinterest photos, screenshots from a brand you like, or just describe it in words. Tell us your preferred color, sleeve length, pants style, collar type, and any custom details (piping, monogram, etc.).

Step 2: Measurements

Follow our guided measurement process. For pajamas, we typically need: shoulder width, bust, waist, hip, arm length, torso length (front and back), and inseam. The whole process takes about 10 minutes with a friend helping or using our video guide.

Step 3: Fabric Selection

We will send you photos and videos of available silk fabrics. If you want to feel the fabric before committing, we can mail you physical swatches. We carry 19mm and 22mm mulberry silk in a range of colors -- from classic white, ivory, and black to blush, champagne, dusty rose, sage, navy, and dozens more.

Step 4: Production

Your set is cut and sewn by our tailors in Hoi An. We send you progress photos via WhatsApp so you can see your pajamas being made. Production typically takes 7-14 days depending on complexity and current order volume.

Step 5: Delivery

We ship worldwide via DHL or FedEx. Typical delivery time is 3-7 business days after production is complete. Total from order to your doorstep: 2-4 weeks.

The full process feels more like texting a friend who happens to be a tailor than filling out an e-commerce form. Because that is basically what it is.

Custom silk pajama sets from Hoi An, Vietnam -- same mulberry silk as luxury brands at a fraction of the price
2-4 weeks from WhatsApp message to your front door. Custom mulberry silk, made for your body.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know it is real silk and not polyester satin?

Three ways. First, real silk feels cool to the touch and warms to your body temperature within seconds -- polyester stays the same temperature. Second, rub the fabric between your fingers: silk creates warmth from friction, polyester feels slippery and static-prone. Third, and most definitively: real silk will burn like hair and smell like burning hair when exposed to flame, because it is a protein fiber. Polyester melts into a hard bead and smells like burning plastic. We are happy to send you fabric swatches so you can verify before ordering.

What is the difference between Grade A and Grade 6A silk?

Silk quality is graded from A (lowest) to 6A (highest). The grading reflects the length of the silk fibers, uniformity of the thread, and amount of natural luster. Grade 6A silk has the longest, most uniform fibers with the fewest imperfections. For pajamas, anything Grade A or above is perfectly good -- the difference between grades becomes more noticeable in very fine garments where you need an extremely smooth surface, like evening gowns or neckties.

Is 19mm or 22mm better for pajamas?

Both work well. 19mm is lighter and slightly more breathable -- ideal if you run warm at night or live in a hot climate. 22mm is denser and more opaque, with a more luxurious drape -- it is what most premium brands use and what we recommend for most customers. The price difference between 19mm and 22mm in our sets is roughly $15-$20. If you can afford 22mm, go with 22mm.

Can you match a specific color from a photo?

In most cases, yes. We work with a wide palette of dyed silk fabrics and can get very close to a specific color from a reference photo. For exact matching (like coordinating with wedding colors), we recommend sending a Pantone reference or a physical swatch for comparison. We will always send you a photo of the actual fabric in natural light before we cut so you can approve the color match.

How long do silk pajamas last?

With proper care (cold wash, air dry, no harsh detergents), a 22mm mulberry silk pajama set will last 3-5 years of regular wear. Some of our customers have sets that are going on 7+ years. Silk is significantly more durable than most people realize -- the issue has always been incorrect care, not the fabric itself.

Do you do plus sizes?

Every order is custom. There is no size chart. There is no "plus" or "petite" -- there is just your body and your measurements. Whether you are XS or 4XL by conventional sizing, the process is exactly the same: you send measurements, we make the set for your body. No upcharge for larger sizes.

Can you make matching sets for mothers and daughters?

Absolutely. We do mommy-and-me sets, mother-daughter sets for bridal mornings, and even full family matching pajama sets for holiday photos. Same custom process -- each person sends their own measurements, we coordinate the design across all sets.

What if something does not fit?

With custom sizing, fit issues are rare (our accuracy rate across all garments is 97%+), but if something is off, we work with you to resolve it. For simple adjustments, a local tailor can handle it and we will cover the cost. For significant issues, we remake the piece. We are not in the business of sending you a $60-$100 set and then ghosting you -- we have 364+ five-star Google reviews and 5,000+ happy customers because we actually stand behind what we make. Read about our full fit guarantee and resolution process.

The Bottom Line

Here is the simplest version of everything I have said in this article:

Real mulberry silk pajamas are one of the highest-return investments you can make in your daily comfort. They help your skin, protect your hair, regulate your temperature, and make you feel like the main character of your own life every morning and every night. That is not marketing -- that is material science.

The only reason most women do not own a set is the price. And the only reason the price is high is middlemen, marketing, and Manhattan rent. Remove those three things, and a custom silk pajama set -- made for your body, in your color, from the same mulberry silk the $300+ brands use -- costs $60-$100.

I left Wall Street and moved to Hoi An because I saw this gap between what things cost and what people are charged. If you want the full story, I wrote about that here. But the short version is: the markup on most luxury sleepwear is 5-8x the production cost. We run at a 2x markup because our overhead allows it. Same silk. Same quality. Different economics.

Check our full pricing menu, or just send us a message. We are real people, we respond fast, and we genuinely enjoy this work.

Ready to upgrade your sleepwear?
Message us on WhatsApp with your dream PJ set -- inspiration photos, color ideas, or even just "I want custom silk pajamas" -- and we will take it from there. Bridal parties, solo orders, matching sets -- we have done it all.

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Your 'Silk' Pajamas Are Polyester and Your Skin Knows It | Nathan Tailors